06 May Phelps Vineyard: Remote, Challenging, Worth It.
A Hidden Humboldt Gem
One of the things I like about growing and making wines from Humboldt is the “undiscovered” aspect. Humboldt County remains a small and largely unexplored wine region. There are only a handful of vineyards, but the possibilities for making great wines are there if you are willing to look for them.
My first sojourn to Phelps Vineyard was in 2019, when the owner of Briceland Vineyards brought me there (it’s not exactly a place you could stumble upon). For me, the trip to Phelps Vineyard started with the three-hour drive from my home in Sebastopol to Garberville, followed by another 45-minute drive on a dirt road that climbs from roughly 300 feet to close to 2,500, getting steeper and narrower as it goes. Technically, it’s about four miles West of Garberville, and about five miles as the crow flies from the Benbow Historic Inn. But the journey to get there makes it feel further from civilization. By the time you reach the vineyard, you’re a long way from anything.
My first impression of the vineyard was that it was different from any other site I had visited. First, it was stunning. I later brought a well-known photographer out, one who had photographed thousands of vineyards, and she was adamant that it was the most beautiful she had seen.
My second impression was that it would be incredibly challenging. Tough to farm and very tough to harvest. The 5-acre vineyard is part of a larger 3,000 acre ranch, owned by Todd Phelps, who farms it himself with the help of neighbors. This sounds quaint, but farming here is not easy, even if you live on site. Yields are low and inconsistent, and wildlife pressure is constant. Keeping deer out is an ongoing challenge, and birds can take their share as well. Bears move through the property, which brings its own set of considerations when it comes to fencing and timing. One season, grasshoppers came through and skeletonized sections of the vineyard, stripping leaves down to the veins – a phenomenon I have never seen or heard of in any other vineyard.
Phelps sits on a ridgeline in southern Humboldt County, not far from the Lost Coast. The site has full exposure — 360-degree views of timber and mountains in every direction. This is a coastal mountain site, with constant Pacific influence. Fog and wind keep temperatures down, and the growing season stretches out longer than what we see in Russian River Valley. The soils are low in nutrients, which keeps vigor in check and results in small clusters and thicker skins.
Of course, getting fruit off the mountain can be as challenging as growing it. One year, I tried to bring down about 5.5 tons in a single load. Near the steepest section, the brakes went out. There aren’t many places to go in that situation. Fortunately, there was a meadow just below the road, and I was able to use it to bring everything to a stop – very lucky for me.
Phelps is definitely a case of the toughest endeavors bearing the best fruit. The wines reflect the site. Compared to Russian River Valley, the Pinot Noir from Phelps carries more structure — higher acidity, firmer tannins, and a more savory profile. The fruit is there, but it sits alongside earthier, more herbal notes that feel consistent with the environment. This vineyard demands attention and is worth the effort.
I have been and continue to be proud of the wines we are making from this site, and excited about its future possibilities. Our most recent releases from the vineyard 2023 Phelps Vineyard Chardonnay and 2023 Phelps Vineyard Pinot Noir received 95 points and 94 points respectively and strong reviews from Wine Enthusiast – read below for full reviews.
If you would like to experience this vineyard yourself (don’t worry, we’ll drive), join us July 24-26 for an epic weekend at the Benbow Inn. There will be a special tasting at the inn, a winemaker dinner, and a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Phelps Vineyard. Contact us for more information or to reserve your spot.
Cheers!
Adrian
Wine Enthusiast Reviews for Phelps Vineyard – Humboldt County Wines
2023 Phelps Vineyard Chardonnay, Humboldt County: 95 POINTS
The nose is fresh, with layers of captivating Meyer lemon, sweet, ripe green apple, spiced Asian pear, and buttery biscuit. At the same time, the palate combines acidity with lively, lovely, youthful crisp stone fruit, orange blossoms, honeysuckle, and a mouth-watering dry finish. The wine is a nod to the cooler-climate harvest and the bottle’s longevity. I love that this bottling is produced from Barrel and Amphora; there is so much depth and expression in the glass. This is one to sit and ruminate on life while sitting in your favorite spot. Cellar or Decant until 2035 — Tonya Pitts
2023 Phelps Vineyard Pinot Noir, Humboldt County: 94 POINTS
The aromas wafting throughout the glass are wild, opulent raspberry, black currant, brandy Bing cherry, on the nose, with flecks of cardamom orange dancing around the outer rim. The palate is youthful yet elegant, with rich pomegranate, red plum, blood orange, coriander, pink grapefruit peel, Pink Himalayan salt, and a dry, lip-smacking finish. This wine is one for the ages. I would recommend buying several and watching them evolve in the cellar. Cellar/ Decant until 2040 — Tonya Pitts